The announcement of a new pie and mash shop in the London postcodes caused something of a stir earlier this year, when Barney's threw open its doors in February. Bucking against the depressing trend of recent closures in our capital-obsessed capital, this humble venture in the Higham Hill quarter of greater Walthamstownia quickly went 'viral' on social media platforms.

As ever, it fell to the upholders of the club to pay visit to this beacon of hope in the far-flung reservoir lands of north-east London. Upon arrival, we found Benford already ensconced in the compact premises, along with a fresh-faced female film crew.

Our host Tom was gallantly unfazed by the dazzle of digital devices as we put in multiple orders of stewed eels.

The degustation of the dainties was deliberate.

General consensus: slightly overdone, but we've been served stewier in more established shops than Barney's.

With or without liquor it's an enjoyable dish in itself, especially with a free chunk of French stick.

Tom has had no previous training in the noble trade. Barney's represents a personal labour of love for London's traditional dish – and a steep learning curve. He showed me the ingenious method for keeping his mash hot without it getting waterlogged by condensation [see carefully placed, clean dishtowel above].

The serve-up itself was absolutely textbook.

A bright new face joined us – Ruth Batham, originally of the midlands, now of Holloway. Edward Mosse's tutorial timetable terminated tidily for both pupil and teacher to take lunch with the club.

Aside from being a qualified educator, Ruth is also an accomplished artist. [You can view some online samples of her work here.]

It's my hope that a study of Edward Mosse in gouache will one day take shape on Ruth's easel – if he can sit still for long enough.

Terry Moore launched himself into a hefty Ted Rogers with his signature can of full-fat Cola to wash it all down.

It's quite common to see the BBC at major sporting events, but in this case the 'coverage' was supplied by Barney's 'Big Boy Chili' – a house vinegar crammed with capsicums.

A study in beige, green and brown.

The diminutive pastry-clads are a similar size to the standard Robin's vehicle, but in my view tastier. There were some gamey notes which reminded me a bit of Arment's pie filling, and a bit of the beef mince my mum used to make. The tops were a touch soft, but that's probably down to the pie-warmer rather than the cooking method. At the time of writing Tom is producing between 80 and 90 of these freshly-made pies every day.

The mash was spot-on, but several of the company found the authentic-looking  liquor a bit salty.

Friend of the club Pete Harvey joined us for a late lunch, having just finished his working day – also in the education sector.

As we took in the view beyond the vinegar bottles, long-time Walthamstow resident Pete was able to provide some colourful historical notes on the Higham Hill area. Garnett Way is at the centre of a large council estate originally designated for housing travellers, with the Higham Hill Road a long established boundary between rival gangs. The nearby Higham Hills Tavern was a regular flashpoint in these turf wars, earning it a reputation as 'Britain's hardest boozer'. We wondered what effect the imminent metropolisation of the reservoir lands on this area might have.

Across from us in the window seats, Charlotte Maher, of City University of London, was gathering her interview techniques together with the help of a strawberry pie and custard.

Charlotte, with her colleagues Tara and Kim, are studying journalism: their assignment – a short film about the pie industry in London. The club lunch formed part two of a Barney's segment in which they have already captured Tom's working day from early morning to early evening.

You can now view the fruits of their labours on the YouTube.

The shop is open Mondays to Saturdays from 11am to 7pm, and veggie pies are available.

The dessert options are all pie-formatted. Seen here: rhubarb pie and custard, mince pie.

Apple pie and custard.

Life is sweet.

Hard-working Tom's good lady Heidi helps out in the shop when it gets busy - it's often the only time she sees him!

In case you wondered, the unusual blue and white theme is entirely accidental - the tile shop had run out of green.

Some 5 minutes' walk south, The Higham Hill Tavern has been transformed into a low-key local called The Warrant Officer, a calm and cosy beer oasis in something of a pub desert.

Conclusion: Barney's offers an original, yet authentic take on the ambrosial scoff. Situated in a remote, and very local, corner of north London, it's a small operation very much in keeping with the true spirit of pie and mash. We wish Tom the very best of luck with the business and his anticipated delivery service, and enjoin you try the Barney's experience for yourself. We need more shops like this.

St@