Does the lone Eurostar trolley portend the demise of a nearby pie and mash shop? Such harbingers haunted Exmouth Market in the latter years of Clark's, signalling the transition of the street from quotidian pans to 'Pain Quotidien'.

This summer, Manze's announced they were vacating their iconic premises after the best part of a century, giving rise to a genuine London news story in the slack days of mid-August. So, our official visit of 24th November was scheduled as a farewell to this solitary beacon of pie and mash in Islington borough.

Manze's central location drew in a dozen clubbers eager for authentic marble-topped action. In spite of advance notice of our arrival, however, supply of pies from kitchen to counter was patchy, there were no eels on site, and the service was somewhat lackadaisical.

You could argue that this is part of the Manze's experience – an unvarnished, unnostalgic trip back in time to the early twentieth century.

What impresses most is the lack of concession to modern tastes in fixtures, fittings, food – and service for that matter. Here is no exhortation to 'have a nice day'.

Thus was the mighty Tom Leader's order for a second plate lost in the general hubbub; I saw him leave, sterling in hand, in a state of the highest dudgeon.

Inside the superb premises of no.74, Chapel Street N1, with current champion Nick Everton chewing through a five-and-four in the foreground.

Islington has long been a convenient locale for man-about-town Andy Potter. I suspect he was keen to get the advantage over his old oppo T. Cecil.

Memberships of nearby Islington Boat Club and The Pirate Castle up at Chalk Farm have lent Sue Madigan's dash a waterways splash recently. She certainly puts the naughty into nautical.

Manze's vehicle, upended in preparation for a pie-ectomy.

These two young physogs brought something of the arts to our cultural coven. Here is newcomer Lewis E Hazelwood-Horner, painter in oils [sometimes emulsion], keen to coincide his palette with some pastry. [View his work here.]

[Far right] Kitty Lam is a film-maker of note with considerable footage of the club in her can. The intimidating challenge before her is to edit that starchy lump of raw material into an edifying and filmic five minutes.

My boothmate was the eminent historian Judith Deschamps, who voyaged valiantly from distant Catford in pursuit of a mouthful of English heritage.

[Far right] Surgery in progress.

[Below] Flavours from The Chapel of Pies.

The red gloves and two tone specs mark out her out as 'one to watch' – preferably through binoculars from a crow's nest. However, the Pie and Mash Club's demanding remit is to encompass points of view from all quarters. We piped aboard another shipmate of Islington Boat Club, the formidable Rosalind 'Roz' Bagnell. Roz has a lifelong hatred of pie and mash, and her forthright and voluble views formed a refreshing digestivo to our stodgy scran. She's one of that remarkable breed who don't break fast till the sun is well below the yard arm.

Ray Goldstone is not.

This piece of prize porcelain was identified as a Jardinière. I thought it had a touch of the commode about it, perhaps a 'pot au lit á deux'?

Despite Sue's tactful overtures, the item was not for sale. Collectors are instead directed towards the elegant chinaware available from the counter.

As we exited, Lewis eased his easel into the small booth inside the front window and prepared to palletise. It was fascinating to observe him mixing his colours for the muted splendour of Manze's interior.

The Chapel Street post-grub shot – will there be another?

Considerations of service notwithstanding, I thought the operation lacked a little love – perhaps not surprising in the circumstances. In the US, a treasure trove of social history such as this would be run as a micro-theme park, or living museum.

We discussed the future from the Alma, on the next corner at no. 78. At the time of writing, Manze's will be withdrawing from no. 74 in the New Year and there has been talk that new owners, who will continue to operate it as a pie shop, have been found. Rest assured we'll keep you posted.

St@