Since 1974, Nathan’s in Upton Park has served thousands of Hammers fans and locals alike. But in recent times the shop has suffered a decline in trade due to the increase in rents, the loss of the old West Ham Stadium nearby and the steady migration of Cockneys to the counties of Essex and Kent.

So it came to no surprise when earlier this month, the shop announced that they would cease trading on the 26th May, thus bringing an end to over 80 years of trade. On the day before its closure, a small gathering of us visited the shop to pay our last respects.

Although we managed to get in early, the queues were already starting to form rapidly, and it took us quite some time to get served as most of the customers opted for take-outs. Long serving dinner ladies Brenda Rice (left) and Christine Nathan (right) certainly had their work cut out that lunchtime as they coped with the deluge of hungry customers.

The shop’s closure also marks an end of an era for pie & mash shops in this area. A quarter of a century ago, Upton Park boasted some memorable names: Duncan’s, Mercers, Mudie’s, Duncombe’s and Roy’s used to operate within the locality.

The gradual closure of pie & mash shops in this area is a marked reminder of the changing image of this town.

Nathan’s Last Supper

The fare on offer did not disappoint although the filling pies with their heavily reinforced short-crust pastry toppings easily conquered our appetites.

Also available that day were eels, which a few of us partook. Apparently Friday was the final day the shop served eels prior to closure, so we managed to get them just in time.

By getting in early, the six of us managed to bag a table right in the prime position at the centre of the shop. However despite our club’s famed status in the world of pie & mash, none of the other customers batted an eyelid at our presence.

After we started to tuck into our grub, two more clubbers Sue Madigan and Tom Leader also turned up. However by this time the queue was stretching far down the street, so by the time we had finished our meal, they were still waiting for theirs. On these rare occasions, being late can lead to a very long wait.

Stones fan Alan Smith was packing in the carbs with a stodgy 1&1 and stewed eels. He needed the sustenance to get him through a Rolling Stones concert at the O2 Arena later that evening. After a good hearty meal he should be Jumping Jack Mash for the rest of the day.

(Right) Chilli Vinegar bottles ready for lift off.

(Below) Ray Goldstone (left) eagerly cuts through his meal with a double serving of spuds to keep him going. Edward Mosse (centre) does another of his famous poses; and club recorder Nick Evans (right) wades through a trough of Jellied Eels.

Both Terry Moore (left) and Mike Goldwater (right) were appropriately adorned in green for the occasion. These eager young chaps could appropriately demonstrate with their wares, the different hues of liquor found in various pie & mash shops.

Scenes like this reminded us of the shop’s glory days when hordes of Hammers fans used to descend on match days. Many of the customers on this occasion were former regulars, who were on a farewell visit to their old feeding grounds. Check out this fascinating article about the shop, from Spitalfields Life.

As we concluded our meal, trade was still flowing thick and fast. So in respect of other customers trying to find a table, we packed up our things and left the shop promptly.

Just before we left the shop, myself and Nick went out back to offer our thanks to father and son team David and Richard Nathan who were busily preparing pies for baking. They obliged us with this quick snap together before resuming their important work.

Outside we posed for our customary group portrait, where we found Tom Leader still in the queue, waiting to be served.

Afterwards we went down to The Boleyn for a farewell tipple. We raised our pints in thanks to the staff at Nathan’s for their phenomenal service that lunchtime and to their outstanding contribution to the local area over the past 44 years; we wish them a prosperous retirement and future ahead.

MG