On 25th April, a small band of dedicated pilgrims headed towards the Orient, seeking succulent sustenance of substance. There was no Orient Express; progress on the Central Line was more akin to the camel train of the Magi.

I telephoned 'Soapdish' from Leytonstone tube station. He informed me that the final leg of the journey was no 10-minute cakewalk. I finally caught up with him outside the shop just before 13.40. It was a pleasure to meet once more with our fresh-faced 'Ready, Steady, Cook' enabler, for it was he who had the original brainwave for their pie-themed episode.

We cruised in to find Mister Darlow pondering a second course. The man is truly a battleship amongst frigates. Orders were placed at Noted's tropically-temperatured counter, where rubber tree plants and macaws would find comfort in these steamy environs. A glance stage left reveals mighty pie furnaces, separated from the front-of-house by the mere span of an outstretched oven-glove.

Noted's is a wide, double-fronted shop in a little side street just off Harrow Green, as it's called. The only green I saw was on my plate. The whitewashed wooden boards, picture mirrors and stainless steel table tops lend a decidely spartan feel to the establishment.

Grub-wise I was a bit disappointed with the pies, which weren't that notable. Although the dark lid so beloved of the purist had been achieved, the hull appeared to have collapsed, leaving the vessel struggling to stay proud of the liquor like a stricken tanker. But this is the Noted Eel and Pie House, and sure enough a Noted Eel was what we found. It seemed to possess something of the exotic Orient, as if landed that morning on the misty shores of Hokkaido.

John Leach made an impressive journey from the Ultimate West, rather hoping to see pals Bill and Janice who are Leyton locals, I believe. Despite their absence a steady stream of pie punters kept business brisk till well after 2pm.

What poignant pleasure was the sight of young love in blossom over a plate of nourishing nosh at the Mind the Step table.

Closing hours on Frid's are discretionary.

Noted's offered up a mixed foodbag, but I think we enjoyed its singular ambience, best summarised as 'unspoilt'. Graham and I bade our two lunch pals farewell and popped into the cavernous 'Loaded Dog' opposite, for a glass of beer from the coast. A Friday afternoon made even more agreeable for me by a direct train home. Blessed be.